So, what about breakfast at Ninfa's?
It's 10 a.m. on a Saturday morning. You stumble out of bed in search of food. At times like these, CK just won't do. You need a real meal. You need ... Mexican! No, not Burrito Hell or chips y queso at Taco Cabana. You need a Ninfa's breakfast, which is quite possibly the best deal in the city. Ninfa's serves Mexican breakfasts at very reasonable prices, around $15 for a breakfast for two, including drinks.
Most of you are probably not aware of the tradition of the Mexican morning meal. Start your breakfast with a steaming cup of cinnamony Mexican hot chocolate. Follow up with fresh sweet bread, a typical Mexican breakfast staple. The bread comes out hot and soft, encrusted with a sweet layer of brightly covered sugar, accompanied by butter and various marmalades.
If you're in the mood for something salty, there is a generous amount of fresh tortilla chips accompanied by Ninfa's red and green salsas. The salsa connoisseur may be disappointed with the lack of spiciness or cilantro, but it is better than most of its watery competition.
Most of their entrees are egg-based. They are the perfect accompaniment, in Huevos Mexicanas, to diced chili peppers, onions and fresh tomatoes. In Huevos con Chorizo, another typical Mexican breakfast, the eggs are scrambled with homemade Mexican sausage. Each entree is served with rosemary new potatoes, refried beans and a slightly lackluster green corn tamale. You are offered a choice of bacon, ham or sausage.
There are dishes which include meats like fajita steak and pork chops, but we would advise avoiding the dry, underseasoned portions. They aren't bad, they're just not as good as the rest.
Our overall favorite is the chilaquiles, which are a breakfast cure for all your ills. Mexican families will throw together the leftover bits of tortillas and vegetables from days before with fresh eggs to create a delicious cheese-topped concoction. Ninfas's continues the tradition with a large portion of eggs scrambled with corn tortilla pieces, cheese, onions, tomatoes and chilis. This is the best dish. One of the best parts about it is that unlike most Mexican restaurants in Houston, Ninfa's has taken the time to make fresh flour tortillas. Pile your chilaquiles or egg dishes into these and you will be in heaven.
The closest Ninfa's is at Kirby and Richmond. Breakfast is served until 1 p.m., weekends only.
This item appeared in the Arts & Entertainment section of the January 26, 1996 issue.
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