Fung's Kitchen: fresh, quality Chinese cuisine
Fung's Kitchen is the best Chinese restaurant in Houston.
Now I know that statement will probably cause some debate -- it seems as if everyone has a different favorite Chinese restaurant. However, everyone I know that has gone to Fung's has been converted. This is not the typical cookie-cutter, all you can eat, everything-tastes-the-same Chinese. Every dish here is prepared with time and effort, and such quality shows in the final product.
The dumplings are a must-have appetizer. Fried just long enough to be a little crispy, these little nuggets of goodness are miles above the dumplings at any other restaurant. Both of the sampled soups, the hot and sour and the wonton, were excellent--the hot and sour in particular. The soft-shelled crab is wonderfully crispy and spicy -- order this as a second appetizer.
And if you do not like seafood, be sure to go with someone who does and make them order the fish-of-the-day. Plucked live from a tank not 20 meters from your table, the fish is cooked and marinated minutes after its demise. Served whole and upright (it looks as if it is swimming at you, mouth open and head up), you will quickly lose all pity once the first bite enters your mouth. Sure, maybe a creature was just killed for your meal, but damn, it tastes goooood .
Perhaps the fish would taste the same if prepared in a slightly less dramatic manner, but the chefs here take pride in their work, and they prepare this and all of the other dishes in a manner both delicious and artistic.
The other dishes are also wonderful. The menu has a wide selection of seafood, such as shrimp, lobster and clams (all pulled out of in-store tanks for maximum freshness). The crispy, salty shrimp were excellent, even if they were consumed, uh, improperly. (They came with the shells on, and we debated whether they needed to be removed. We finally decided to just eat them, and they were great. However, afterward the waitress remarked that next time she would "show us how to remove the shells." Oops.)
The non-seafood choices, although somewhat limited, were just as delectable as the seafood. The chicken with peanuts was unbelievably good. At this point we should probably comment on the drawbacks to the restaurant, but we can't think of any. Perhaps the iced teas were not large enough?
You will not be disappointed in Fung's. Fung's is open until 10 p.m. Sunday through Thursday and 11 p.m. Friday and Saturday. Reservations will be needed on the weekends. Food at Fung's is moderately expensive, costing more than the average Chinese place (but for much better than average cuisine). Expect to spend approximately $40 per couple for both an appetizer and large entrees.
The restaurant itself is in a slightly odd location. Down 59- South about ten minutes, Fung's Kitchen is located on the feeder road, in a strip mall next to a car lot and stereo store. Located at 7320 Southwest Freeway, call 779-2288 for directions so you can get off at the correct exit.
This item appeared in the Arts & Entertainment section of the March 15, 1996 issue.
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